Sunday, October 28, 2012

Reptilian Make-Up Tutorial

It has been FOREVER since I posted here - o.O - and this entry will be a bit different from the things that I have posted before.  This Halloween weekend, I went out dressed up as a half-human, half-reptile, and it was AWESOME!  I had a blast.  A ton of people asked me about who did my face, and, in hopes of being helpful, I'm putting up a tutorial on how I did it. :D

You will need:
Sharpie Markers - Light Green, Dark Green, Teal/Aqua, and Black
Eyeliner Pencils (NOT liquid) - White and Black (and possibly a sharpener, if you're like me and bought the cheap pencils that aren't fancy and automatic)
About an hour and a half - possibly more, depending on the amount of coverage you're doing
A good sense of humor and the ability to laugh at yourself

Notes before you begin:
This tutorial is designed for people with fair skin – I’ve only done it on myself, so I really don’t know how it would work on anything darker than my pasty whiteness. ;)
This is done almost entirely with permanent markers – I don’t honestly know how safe this is, I use them because I’m allergic to everything under the sun, and these don’t cause me to break out.
Do not wash your face first – the natural oils of your skin will help to protect it from the markers, and assist with blending as you progress.
The colors of Sharpie and Bic brand permanent markers come off pretty easily with dish soap.  I have had different results using different colors, brands, and areas of the body.
I put in contacts first – there’s no way I would have gotten them in afterward without smearing everything all over.
Once everything is washed off, you'll look like you have blackheads because the ink seeps into your pores while you're wearing it.  Give it a few hours and wash your face again - you'll be good to go.

Step One:
You’ll have to excuse me, I forgot to take a photograph of just the dark green outlines.  Do them! Using your dark green marker, place your ovals and half ovals where you are going to want your scales.  Take a look at a couple different types of lizard, and use those as a basic reference.  The lines don’t have to be sharp or clean, and throughout the entire process remember that we are not drawing scales – we are drawing the /appearance/ of scales.  Important distinction. ;)
You can see here that I’ve started to lightly block out some shapes on my ear, and that my dark green lines basically stop at the edge of my hair line.  This will change later, but right now, it’s not important, we’re just laying the foundation for later.
Using my lightest green, I then went over all of the scaled area and filled it in, continuing in some places past the scales – this is going to be the groundwork for later.  I varied the intensity of the light green in some areas, keeping in mind the areas that I’d like to be a little bit lighter at the end.  Nothing needs to be clean or defined at this point, just have a good time getting used to scribbling on yourself and noticing the way the marker is working on your skin.



Step Two:
Pull out that teal color, and go outline all those dark green circles.  Remember to make a couple slashy lines along your cheek- that’s where your ‘teeth’ will be.  Thick lines will be fine – we’re starting to create some depth here.  This is usually about the time where I start to go, “Ahhhh!!! I’m messing it up!!! This looks TERRIBLE!”  Don’t worry! Everything will be okay!  I also start to make some diagonal lines out from some of the joining areas of the scales into the rest of the skin, and going over any areas that I feel like I missed with that light green marker – it just looks better to me.  This is all up to you and your tastes, and the effects that you want to create with it.  I also start to block a little further into the ear, but not much – don’t worry about the way that area looks at all.  You’re mostly going to just color it over anyway.



Step Three:
Whip out that black marker! Are you tired of drawing circles yet?  You’ll love with this part then! Go ahead and outline all those ovals again.  Isn’t this fun?! I’ve also begun to really darken up those areas between the scales – all those little places where I’m noticing the skin tone to be glaringly obvious – this is where I take care of that.   I also make sure to accent those teal slashy lines – not directly over them, but to the side of them, overlapping.  Feeling better now?  You’ll start to look a bit more reptilian at this point, take a few deep breaths – you’re doing awesome!
You can see that I’ve also decided I want to go a little further back on my neck – I lay down some black lines where I think I want to put those scales, and since they’re going to be less prominent anyway, I can just color them over and then shade with turquoise and dark green.


Step Four:
I pull out that teal marker again, and add some darker areas where I feel like the lines are too sharp – this is really easy, just trace inside the black.  Gives it a little depth, and softens it up a little bit.  If I see too much natural skin color, no problem, touch it up with my super light green.  I’ve also started to color my ear.  Scribble, scribble, scribble, scribble, yeah!



Step Five:
I use my teal and dark green to really fill in the color back into my hair line, as well as finishing up the base coat on my ear.  I touch up the sides of my neck, skipping the black where I want it to start to blend (remember those little diagonal lines out from the joining areas of the ovals!), and basically make sure my colors are in where I want them.


Step Six:
This is where we separate the lizards from the loozards (Get it? Loozard? Like ‘loser’? It’s okay, you can groan.)  Take that black eyeliner pencil, and fill in the area around your eye.  Get as close as you can to the edge of your eyelid – remember, reptile eyes  are a little more dramatic around the edges than mammals, so you’re going to get it as crisp as you can.  You’re also going to want to blacken the area around the undersides of your nostrils, otherwise the fleshy color is going to throw off the rest of the look.  Use your white eyeliner to make your ‘toothy’ slash lines.


Step Seven:
Highlighting.  If you’re anything like me, at this point you’re sweaty and your eyeliner pencils have broken a million times and that stupid sharpener is useless and you’re irritated at drawing these stupid ovals and- and- and- and- HANG IN THERE!!! YOU’RE ALMOST DONE!!!  Pick the direction that you want the lighting to come from (aka, pick which side of the ovals you want the white lines to be on).  This can vary a little bit, but should stay in roughly the same area for each oval.  Around the inner edges of the ovals, take that white eyeliner pencil and draw some semblance of half circles.
Toss a couple white lines on that ear for good measure – you are so pro.



BOOM!


Get some decent lighting, and check out how amazing you look!  Ta-da!!! You did it! :D

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Blanks in, spots out!

Oh Dalmation spots... How you do require patience...

If you all recall the post "I Get Lizards In The Mail", you then met Finch (aka Vanity), out of Crown Jewel Reptiles that I purchased for my boy Norbert (you can see him here: Norbert!).  The two of them were placed together this season, to see what sort of babies they'd produce, and - lo and behold - we hatched out Rapscallion:


And Rascal:


But... But... But... Where's the SPOTS?!

They're developing, slowly.

...SoooOOOoooOOOoooo slowly.

But they ARE appearing!  Hooray! :D

Thursday, December 8, 2011

You Might Be A Reptile Person If...

Since I do so love Jeff Foxworthy, and his "You might be a redneck if..." commentary, I decided to start a list of my own.  Without further ado, "You might be a reptile person if..."

...You go digging through the recyclables to save plastic water bottle lids, toilet paper tubes, and egg crates.

...You go to bed sweating because it's become more efficient to heat the entire house than individual tanks.

...To you, Tupperware means 'sauna', not 'leftovers'.

...You wonder why anyone would buy the glass starter tanks, because clearly they aren't stack-able.

...You get irritated at a ten minute drive to the grocery store for food, but a four hour trip to the next expo seems perfectly reasonable.

...You can understand why someone would breed roaches.

...You've ever had to move the rats to get to your ice cream.

...When someone says, "Nice rack!", you look for a caging system.

...Similarly, "That guy has awesome balls," does not sound like an obscene reference to you.

...When the news reports a python on the loose, anything under 8' makes you shrug dismissively.

...You know why people hate shipping from California.

...You've ever looked at your collection and thought, "Hm, guess I'm not moving to Hawaii."

...The animals in your home have three different categories: Pets, Breeders, and Feeders.

...You actually have a species wishlist.

...You know the difference between UVA and UVB, and what the purpose of vitamin D3 is.

...And you actually care.

...The term, "Sperm Retention" means something to you.

...You see your friends will all of their cute, cuddly, furry, affectionate animals and don't really see the attraction.

...You catch yourself correcting people on the difference between a turtle and a tortoise.

...You've ever rolled your eyes about amphibians being lumped into the same category as tortoises, snakes, and lizards.

....You can explain to the person sitting next to you why they wouldn't be.

...You know that male snakes don't have a penis.

...You thought to yourself after that last one, "Great, now we're going to have yet another thing to clear up with all of the non-reptile people...."

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Snake Pee and Smelling Salts

This journal entry was originally written on July 29th of 2010, while my reptiles and I were still residing in a single bedroom of my parents home. While the count of the animals fluctuates, and I now keep them outside of my bedroom, the sentiment remains the same. Enjoy!

--

Living in close quarters with animals will teach you nothing if not patience. As it currently stands (after a few unexpected losses, and downsizing for the move), I share my bedroom with three Ball Pythons, sixteen Crested Geckos, and one Leopard Gecko. One can only imagine what the room has looked like over the past sixteen years, constantly transforming to accommodate yet another tank when, just after adding the last one, I swore to myself that there was 'absolutely, positively, no more room.'
A light sleeper in general, I have (over time) become much more adept at continuing to snooze straight through the various bumps, thumps, rustles, clicks, chirps, thunks, and other assorted noises in the night. The one thing I have not adjusted to is... snake pee. (Henceforth referred to by its scientific name, 'urates'.)
Currently, my bed is lofted six feet into the air to allow myself some actual living storage space; all said and done, I use the area under my bed for supplies and clothing, and sleep roughly 18" from the ceiling. Sleeping quarters are cramped, with poor air circulation and heat issues - or, as I call it, "cozy".
It is not quite so 'cozy' at two o'clock in the morning, when I have suddenly come from REM sleep to full consciousness at lightning speed, only to discover that my sinuses and lungs are ON FIRE and I can barely breathe.
Between the nocturnal nature of the animals I keep, the natural out-gassing of waste products, and the very poor circulation of air around my head at night, I regularly find myself waking up in just such a manner. There's no polite way to say it - urates STINKS. It is, basically, a waste form of ammonia; ammonia, as you may or may not know, is the main ingredient in smelling salts. It has become no real surprise to the rest of my family to discover me up and scrubbing tanks in my boxer shorts at three a.m., or crashed on the futon in the living room for the night with my bedroom window open until the area becomes 'livable' again. (It also helps explain why all of the animals are in my room - it's tough to make an argument for having any part of the rest of the house smell like that. Maybe we could keep them in the bathroom?)
It also makes it obvious that the only people who keep animals like that are people that love them.
I have heard many people exclaim, "Oh, isn't it darling!" about a newborn baby - and maybe, to some, it is; wrinkly, purple, crying and screaming and smelling of sour-milk-y vomit... Adorable. For the most part, though, I think there's something about that statement that rings most true for the mother and father; the ones that have been up all night feeding it, changing its diapers, burping it, and singing it back to sleep as best as they can - the ones that changed their lives to have it in their homes.
That's how it is for me with my reptiles; where many people look at them and see a scaly representation of evil itself (which is sometimes how I view newborns, so I'll call it an even trade), I see my own version of a kid - the thing I've worked my life around to keep.

Sunday, May 15, 2011

I sometimes indulge in shameless self promotion.

I've said it before, I'll say it again - the reptile industry isn't the one to get into if you're in it for the cash and prizes.

That said, it's a frickin' awesome hobby, especially during Spring!

If you don't know about my webpage yet, go ahead and check it out:

www.partygecko.com

You can also follow us on Facebook by going here:

http://www.facebook.com/partygecko#!/

Saturday, April 23, 2011

DIY - Isolation/Hydration Station

Every once in a while, you're going to need to separate one of your animals from the others - whether it's a new arrival, an illness, an injury, aggression, etc. This can be done quickly and easily, for far less than the cost of setting up an entirely new tank. The DIY I'm showing here is designed for temporary use (generally for injury or hydration), since it's such a basic set-up, but it can be easily modified to suit your needs.

In this case, I'm showing you how to make a 'hydration station' for a Crested Gecko.

Since I'm working with smaller animals, I'm using a plastic shoe box that was given to me by a friend of mine - I've also used plastic tubs designed for storage, which can be used to accommodate larger animals.

As substrate, I've laid down a couple paper towels. Paper towels are an excellent substrate for hydration, as they hold quite a bit of moisture - they are also a great choice for juveniles of many species, as well as injured animals due to their cleanliness, ease of changing, and color (white, simple backgrounds are far easier to spot waste and other important to see items on).

I've misted heavily, and placed a food dish into the shoebox.



Using a paring knife, I poked several holes in the lid.
(Apologies for the angle, but it does show some of the holes better than a straight on view.)



Annnnnd... that's it.

Easy, huh? :)

Now, for a recovering animal, this is a pretty solid set up (add a water dish if they're going to be in there for more than a few hours, even with a heavy mist) - for an animal that just needs to be separated and is going to be in there for a prolonged period of time, use a larger space and add more decorations (paper towel and toilet paper tubes work well for a variety of species). Done and done. Quick, easy, and inexpensive.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

A Horse Of Many Colors (aka: Before and After Photos)

One of the super interesting things about Crested Geckos - to me, anyway - is the amount of change in coloration that they can go through as they mature. I noticed this most dramatically with Norbert as I was looking through old files the other day, and as such, felt like posting a few progression shots.

This is Norbert shortly after I got him, weighing in at 4-5 grams.



This is Norbert as of last week, about three years after the original photo:



This is a gecko of mine, Zippo, when she weighed approximately 2-3 grams:



And this is the same gecko when she was approximately a year old (I'd post a photo of her today, but she never fires up so you can see her true colors anymore):

Thursday, April 7, 2011

I Get Lizards In The Mail

Norbert's new girlfriend has arrived.

The husband stayed in on Tuesday morning in order to sign off on the package. <3

Without further ado, meet Finch.



Saturday, March 26, 2011

DIY - Naturalistic Background, No 'Great Stuff' Needed!

I'd be amazed if no one had thought of this before, but I personally haven't seen any threads about it, so here you go! They're quick, easy, and don't require the curing time or mess that great stuff and silicon do.

You will need:
-Your tank
-A pen of sorts for marking (I had a sharpie lying around so I used that)
-Strong scissors/wire cutters
-Hot glue gun&extra glue sticks
-Fake plants (I got mine from Michael's Arts&Crafts - it is important when selecting your plants that you make sure there are no sharp edges or little pieces that they could pull off&hurt themselves.)
-Contact Paper Cork Board (You can find several different brands, available in different places - I don't remember where I got mine, it might have been Orchard Supply Hardware. Here's a link to some that they have on amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Tact-04F-C6421-06-18-Inch-4-Feet-Adhesive/dp/B000WEPD6U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1301162045&sr=8-2
-Optional, Strongly Suggested: A good sense of humor

All the supplies, put together (oooh... ahhh... a visual aid...):



Pick the side that you want to decorate, and measure it out on the cork board. I'm working with scraps that I had left over, and managed to have just enough to cover that back wall of a 10 gal that I wanted to decorate. Draw your lines, then cut.

Personal recommendation: I like to cut the cork a little bit smaller than the dimensions of the side I'm putting it on, so that I know it will fit, and it gives me a little leeway with the plants and letting them stick over the edges. (For example, if the side was 18x24, I might cut the cork at 16x22)

Measure, draw, cut:



Plug in that hot glue gun, grab your fake plants, and start decorating!



A couple 'rule of thumbs' that I like to keep in mind:

-With my geckos, "If it's not nailed down, they're going to tear it up." My critters /love/ these backgrounds, and it shows.

-Fabric is easier to glue than plastic. I always make sure to anchor the plants down by the 'stem', and then additionally by gluing a couple of the leaves to the cork as well.

-When in doubt, add more glue. It doesn't always have to be to the cork board - sometimes I'll glue one leaf to another well anchored leaf.

I like to rotate it a little, make sure I get a different view as I'm gluing stuff down, and 'over fill' the background a little - that's my own personal preference.



When I think the background looks full enough, or I'm done burning my fingers on the glue gun (which, for a ten gallon, takes about an hour), it looks something like this:



Turn it over, peel off the paper...



And press it onto the inside of the tank. Make sure to be very thorough, so that it adheres fully - I like to start from the center and work out, which helps to eliminate any air bubbles that might have gotten caught between the paper and the backing.



They're quick, easy, and hold up well to both the geckos and the humidity.

Hope this is helpful! :D

A gratuitous shot of the 20 L I did about 4 months ago:

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Seeing Spots

Well, tonight marks the 'official' retiring of my first breeding trio. (This may be retracted at a later date, but for now, it stands.)

Emerson, Zippo, and Honey will most likely live out the rest of their lives as 'pet only' ladies, luxuriating in restful days of lapping up Crested Gecko Diet, hanging from the glass walls of the tanks, and never having to look at a male again.

That said, I do plan on continuing to breed Cresties, at least for another year. I redid the reptile wall this evening; set a 20 Gallon Long on its end, creating a new home for one of my male Crested Geckos, Norbert (more on this tank and its backing later), and removed Lillun (the male that was in with the girls for the past few seasons) so that he now has his own enclosure.

Norbert is what they call a Super Dalmation color morph, meaning that he has over 100 spots on his body.







Earlier this week, I purchased a girlfriend for him - another Super Dalmation - and she can be seen here:

http://www.crownjewelreptiles.com/animals/view/26#

They should produce some very, very spotty babies, with some great crest structure and body size.

The offspring of Dalmation morph geckos tend to reflect the parents, and then some - being that both mom and dad have 100+ spots, the babies should definitely be some lookers.

I can hardly wait. :D

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Hatching Them Is The Easy Part

Those of you that know me, know that I breed Crested Geckos. For those of you that don't know what those are, imagine a tiny, wingless, toothless dragon, whose temperament ranges somewhere between lap dog and apathetic house cat. Or, for those with a less creative imagination, look below:



When I entered into breeding these geckos a few years ago, my animals were competitive level breeders - their coloration and structure was worth noting and reproducing. It has now been a few years since I purchased these geckos; by today's standards, they generally have one quality worth reproducing (some have great patterning, some have awesome crest structure), but are no longer top of the line. Being that I have not invested in new geckos, the animals I'm producing are generally very high level pet quality, and in about 20% of them, breeding quality. For this very reason, this will likely be the last year that I use these geckos as breeders - I'm alright with producing pet quality (someone's got to cater to those who are really just looking for an awesome pet lizard), and keeping those that I don't sell off, and at the same time, I don't want to 'flood the market' with them. It's sort of like dogs - everyone wants something different, but you don't want too many of any one kind out there or people are going to start mistreating them.

If you're looking to get into breeding reptiles, it is important to consider why you want to do this. Is it to make oodles of money? I'll tell ya - breeding reptiles for the cash and prizes is like chewing bubble gum to win an algebra contest (minus the sore jaw). Are you breeding toward a particular goal? If so, are you willing to continue investing in purchasing breeding stock to keep pace with the evolution of the traits that you're shooting for? What are you going to do with the babies that don't fit into your breeding project? Reptiles need food, and space, and decorations, and care just like any other pet - only, they can be a lot harder to get off of your hands and into a new home. (I don't understand why, really - scaly babies are just as adorable as a teeny tiny fluffy bunny...) Are you breeding them just to see if you can do it? To hatch and raise your own babies?

My next project is going to be my Ball Python line. Back in 2008, I purchased two Lesser Platinum Ball Pythons - one male, one female - and I've spent the past few years growing them up into something of breeding age and weight. I bought these two with a particular goal in mind: I want to produce, hatch, and raise my own Blue Eyed Leucistic Ball Python. I may produce several clutches of Lesser Platinums before this occurs, and all of them will be breeding quality, because they are being bred for their coloration genes (Lesser Platinum is a color morph of a standard Ball Python) rather than a combination of traits (Crested Gecko breeding quality is based on the individual displaying a large collection of different visible traits).

Normal Ball Python (my pet-only sweetheart, Loki):



Lesser Platinum Ball Python (my female, Leyla):



Breeding reptiles is a constantly evolving (no pun intended) practice - it saves you a lot of time, energy, and money if you really do your research beforehand. It all comes down to responsibility, really. Get some background on the species that you want to breed, know /why/ you want to breed them, what sorts of projects other people are doing with the same species, have a plan for what you're going to do with the 'extra' babies, and - if push should come to shove - know that you need to be prepared to take care of every animal you produce.

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

DIY - Naturalistic Crested Gecko Background/Hide Spots

Alright, while I've been waiting to get the animals moved in at my new place, I have admittedly been going a little stir crazy without them. One of the awesome things about reptiles, though, is the amount of awesome things you can do to decorate their tanks - something which, in my case, can be worked on without either the animals OR their enclosures (as long as you know the dimensions of the tank you're working with).

So, what better thing to do with my time than work on decorations?

About a year ago, I started on a custom backdrop for my Crested Gecko breeder tank. Crested Geckos are an arboreal species, which live in semi-humid, moderate temperature environments - meaning that when I'm creating a background for these guys, I need something they can climb and hide in, which will stand up to a somewhat moist environment. To make one yourself, you will need:

1) Great Stuff Expanding Foam Insulation (I bought 2 cans of it, since I hadn't used the material before, and I wasn't sure how much I was going to need.)
2) Something to act as the base for the background. I personally like to use flat sheets of cork board - it's reasonably inexpensive, lightweight, easy to manipulate so that I can get it the right size&position, and it seems to stand up well to my tanks&their inhabitants. Additionally, a lot of cork board packages come with some sort of self-adhesive Velcro pads, which you can use to mount the background to the tank if you deem it necessary (as with anything you put in your tank, be aware of the dangers of placing an adhesive in the enclosure - I prefer to make the background large enough that I can wedge it tightly against the back of the tank to prevent slippage, or small enough that I can use a suction cup based clip for easy removal.)
3) Wire Cutters or strong scissors
4) Hot glue gun (and extra sticks of hot glue)
5) Clear drying caulk
6) Dirt (I used loose coconut fiber that I had frozen for a week or two to 'sanitize' it, then defrosted)
7) Fake Plants (I got mine from Michael's Arts&Crafts - it is important when selecting your plants that you make sure there are no sharp edges or little pieces that they could pull off&hurt themselves.)
8) *OPTIONAL, STRONGLY SUGGESTED* Biodegradable planter cups

As I originally started this project nearly a year ago, I do not have photos of the first few steps - I know, I know - epic documenting fail. ;)

That's alright, you're intelligent people - I'm sure you can figure it out without the visual aids!

...Or, next time I make one of these, I'll photograph that as well.

The breeder tank that I use for the Crested Geckos is an 18"x18"x24" - I started by arranging the cork board into an appropriate sized back drop (taking several 12"x12" pieces and cutting&hot gluing as appropriate to create an approximately 17"x17" square - allowing space on the edges for the Great Stuff Expanding Foam to... well... expand, after I sprayed it on... more on that in a moment).

After I had hot glued the pieces of cork board into an appropriately sized&shaped base to start with, I took some of those biodegradable planters and arranged them on top of the base (to create pockets for hiding/sticking the fake plants in later) - I ended up cutting the biodegradable planters in half to create a more natural look, then hot glued them in place as well.

Next step... GREAT STUFF! This was actually the most unusual (and simultaneously most nerve-wracking) step for me, since I had never used this particular medium before (it was recommended to me by numerous people who have done their own Crestie enclosures). I took the Great Stuff Expanding Foam, and commenced to cover the entire thing - I actually ended up overdoing it a little, I think - it sort of started swallowing those plant pockets I had created with the biodegradable planters - but it all worked out well.

I let the Great Stuff dry COMPLETELY, then picked up the Clear-Drying-Caulk and my bag-o-dirt.

...This step was SO messy. I ended up covered in caulk and coconut fiber. I really wish someone had managed to get a photo of me; I looked like a swamp thing.

Basically, I smeared the entire thing with clear drying caulk, and then covered it with the dirt.

...I had SO. MUCH. FUN! :D

The end result (after letting it dry completely, and shaking off the majority of the extra dirt... both from the background and from myself) left me with something like this:



Lumpy, brown, and reasonably unimpressive, albeit a pretty good start if I do say so myself. (You can't see them, particularly from this perspective, but there are four plant pockets hidden in there - their 'invisibility' isn't necessarily a bad thing; I prefer the look of not being able to see where they are - it feels more 'natural looking' to me; however you do yours is up to you. Have fun! Get creative!)

I then proceeded to let this air out for... oh... about a year (literally, since I sort of forgot about it). You don't need to let it air for that long, but I'd give it about a week in a well ventilated place to finish out-gassing. If you're not sure if it's done, give it more time - you definitely don't want those chemical smells in with your critters.

After it's completely done drying and is no longer giving off that chemical concoction aroma, it's time to DECORATE! Grab those plants, people!



Plug in your hot glue gun, and start playing around with where you think you want your plants to be. Once you like the way they look, get going! Begin to hot glue them in place.



*NOTE* A good deal of fake plants have wires in them that will help hold shape to some extent (this is where the wire cutters come in - trimming pieces off larger plants, etc), and it's important to remember that your critters will actually be actively involved with this background. While the support of the wire is nice, there's nothing quite like spending a ton of time putting a tank together, only to walk in the next morning and find that your geckos (party animals that they are) destroyed it over night. I make sure to 'anchor' the plants with hot glue in several locations, to prevent slippage, offer more stable footing to the animals, and stop the animals from massacring the decorations that they're clambering over.

When you're done (or have had enough of burning yourself on the hot glue), let it set to dry, and VOILA! You should be left with something vaguely resembling a naturalistic environment, that you can attach/wedge in to the back of your tank.



Personally, I have a blast with this stuff. Don't be afraid to get creative, have fun, and don't be afraid to make mistakes a mess ;) - it's how we learn.

Go enjoy your animals.